Night-Time Skin Care. There’s No Rest for the Weary

It’s an urban myth that skin goes to sleep at night. So let’s FACE THE FACTS.

There are a lot of reasons why skincare products need to be applied at night. In fact, it can be easily argued that nighttime products are more vital than daytime, because that’s when the skin repairs itself.

During the day, skin is bombarded with wind, makeup, pollution, sweating, and all of this exhausts the cells. Why? Because the sole purpose of skin is to guard our bodies from exterior insults and contaminants. So during the daytime, the skin is busy defending itself from these environmental factors. That’s why, during the day, we apply products that strengthen, hydrate and guard with skin with antioxidants (topically and systemically) and UV protectors. At night, it’s alert to get alert for another day. That’s the time when the cells renew themselves and need to be activated with key ingredients like retinol; surface repair agents, such as ceramides; and anti-inflammatory agents, such as botanicals. These all work together to make skin that is brighter, more even-toned, and hydrated.
So nighttime products are different from daytime products, because the skin’s needs are different. Many active ingredients in skincare products have a relatively small life, and are deactivated by sunlight. So the really vital ingredients—the really excellent stuff—is rendered useless. So by nighttime, there’s no residual worth. Products need to be reapplied. During the daytime skincare products are rubbed off, sweated off, washed off, wiped off. Or they’re totally absorbed. Moisturizers final only 3-4 hours. Medical treatments require application 2-3 times every 24 hours. I’m a proponent of saturating the skin with active and powerful ingredients so that it’s nourished throughout the day and night. Nighttime products are heavier, to restore fundamental moisture, reduce wrinkles and repair the skin. They provide what we call barrier protection—to prevent transepidermal water loss (dehydration). Then in the morning, your skin is supple, revitalized and smooth. The active ingredients used in nighttime products are better able to stimulate and up-regulate cell turnover so that fresher, brighter, healthier skin can emerge. Nighttime is a perfect opportunity for controlled release of active ingredients over a 4-6 hour period. It is too a excellent time to layer products which may not be possible during the daytime whether makeup is to be applied overtop. Finally, I’d be remiss whether I didn’t mention the importance of cleansing as a portion of a night- time skincare program. Many people, I’m convinced, take the small-cut of not removing their make-up before retiring. Our faces are never covered, they’re always exposed to all kinds of environmental pollutants. Cleanse your skin, faithfully and thoroughly to remove the dirt and surface oils. It’s vital for everyone, but critical for women who wear cosmetics. Sounds a bit extreme, I know, but you may even want to do it twice. It’s that vital.

You may be tired, you may be stressed. But nighttime skincare is vital. And it only takes a minute.

Zein Obagi, MD

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